Lighting
Correctly lighting an animal requires a slightly different approach to
lighting a human subject; fur does not reflect light in the same way as
skin. The exact position of the main light source and level of modelling is
subordinate to the need to capture texture (e.g. their noses do not cast
shadows on their faces). The main light source still needs to fall from
above and to one side, but the exact angle of the light is less critical,
and stronger and more direct illumination can and should be used.
I recommend the use of flash light combined with good daylight to make fur
shine. Cats and dogs do not appear to be aware of flash light, nor worried
by it. There are however, two potential problems to avoid: "red-eye" and
"black halo".
Red-eye is caused by the reflection of light from the retina of the eye.
This can be minimised by using an off-camera flash (if you have one),
positioned slightly above, below, and/or to one side of the axis of the
camera. Most modern cameras with built-in flash units have a red-eye
reduction mode. This uses a series of pre-exposure flashes to close the
subject's iris. The use of flash as a fill-in with bright daylight also
minimises red-eye.
Black-halo is the hard shadow cast by the use of flash in low light
conditions. The way to avoid this is to ensure that the flash isn't the main
(brightest) light source.
Exposure and focus (dark subjects)
Modern cameras are fully automatic in this respect, but most do not perform
well when the subject is something like a black dog. I use an expensive
Leica, but it still underexposes, and hunts for a focus lock when
photographing my (black) dogs.
If your camera has a spot metering facility, use it. If you have a manual
override capability, try "bracketing" (i.e. repeat each shot and
deliberately over expose). If you have control over shutter speeds, use a
fast setting. Similarly, if your camera allows manual focusing, try doing
this yourself.
Underexposure can be corrected using Photoshop (etc), provided that the
lighting was more or less right (i.e. under exposure due to backlighting
cannot be corrected).
Poor focus cannot be corrected retrospectively.
Correct angle of view
The height from which the photograph is shot is very important. Too often I
see aerial shots of small dogs and cats photographed by their towering
6-foot owner. The simple rule is - try to get the camera on the same level
as the subject.
With cats and smaller dogs, it can be easier to place them on a table or any
other suitable item of furniture or support. Sometimes you have to get down
on the floor, but many animals will think you are playing a game.
Encouraging co-operation
The hardest part of pet portrait photography is getting the subject's
co-operation.
The pet owner should know the best way to accomplish this; the place in
which their pet is most likely to feel comfortable, whether they are more
amenable before or after feeding/exercise, what commands or noises they will
respond to.
My personal tips are:
1. If possible, work in the place and at a time that best suits the pet.
2. Leave the commands/noises to one person, preferably the photographer.
There is nothing worse than instructions coming from all around the animal.
3. Don't dangle food/toys in front of the subject - they will inevitably
move to get them.
4. One way of getting pets to stay still for a few seconds is to rub
something tasty on their jaws. They will almost certainly stop to lick their
lips.
5. Avoid placing the animal on grass, which will cover and hide their paws.
Posing the subject
If your dog has been trained to sit or stand, that can be very helpful, but
mostly, you will need to be very patient and wait for the required pose to
happen.
With male dogs, watch-out for "things popping out", and reposition if it
does.
Don't photograph cats lying down. They often tuck their legs under their
bodies, which results in the overall body shape becoming little more than a
fury blob.
Be objective; it's too easy to see nothing more than the pet you love, and
overlook the fact that the shot you are about to take is dull.
Portrait photography from a Portrait Artist's perspective.
Portraits by John
Burton
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